Circumlocution
The Emiratis we have been meeting (most of whom are officials or professionals representing various institutions—schools, universities, the police, the government, oil companies--) have been exceptionally welcoming, gracious, generous and affable. However, I have found that getting a straight answer from any of them, especially on a sensitive subject, is extremely unlikely. I am assuming this is partly for understandable PR reasons, and partly because of different communication styles. (Help me out here, Basma!) We often engage in question and answer sessions. The Emiratis will cheerfully answer our questions with many, many words. Yet often they either avoid the question altogether, or else briefly touch on the answer, but bury it within layers of ornate “blah blah blah.” As one of the members of my group put it, “We are tired of being circumlocuted.”
For example, this morning we visited the Ministry of the Interior, the Department of Human Rights. One Emirati mentioned that one concern they faced was human trafficking. I asked him to discuss some of the other pressing human rights issues they were facing. I took notes on his answer, which was long. His language was much more flowery than mine, but this is basically what he responded, in this order:
· The UAE is an extremely safe country; the crime rates are very low.
· The mission of the Ministry of the Interior is to main internal security.
· Fortunately, most of the people who come to this country to work and peaceful, calm, and law-abiding.
· We are dealing with human trafficking on a local, national, and international level;
· We sometimes face problems with expatriate laborers’ relationships with their employers.
· All societies have issues they must struggle with; our role is to fight these problems;
· We are trying to follow the correct procedures to solve any complaints that arise;
· UAE is very safe. People don’t come here to commit crimes; they come here to work.
· We have some procedures we use to identify criminals, such as iris scans.
· We have many responsibilities, and we are working hard to solve the problems that arise.
I bold-faced the sentence above that was sort of an answer to my problem. (Many of the foreign laborers are exploited by their employers.) The rest of the answer was a repetition of what he had already said. The same ideas were repeated in answer to almost every question that was asked.
My general “translation” of the hour-long conversation from this morning is this:
“We Emiratis are enlightened and humane. We would never violate anybody’s human rights. However, we are a nation with many foreign workers; many of these foreigners are too ignorant and low-class to understand human rights. Therefore, it will take time for us to educate them in how to behave properly.”
Thursday, June 3, 2010
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Government
Government
The United Arab Emirates is governed by, well, emirs. However, they are usually called sheikhs. Their powers are similar to those of kings. Despite the lack of democracy in the Western sense, the rulers are in generally extremely popular and well-respected. Each emirate has its own sheikh. The president of the country is chosen from the seven emirs. The presidents, have so far come from Abu Dhabi. This is not surprising, since Abu Dhabi is much larger and wealthier than the other emirates. Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan was the first president and ruled until his death until 2004. (The country was formed in 1971). He was extremely well-respected, both by his own people and across the Middle East.
Although he was personally enormously wealthy because of oil, he lived relatively modestly and used his wealth to develop his country and help his people. He built up institutions such as schools, universities, hospitals, and guided the country to rapid economic development. He was known for his tolerance to other religions and for his promotion of women’s participation in education and the workplace. He was pro-Western and generally considered a moderate and upright ruler.
The current president is Sheikh Zayed’s son, Sheihkh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, who has continued his father’s tradition of investing in education and modernization. He is generally pro-Western and moderate. Although the people do not vote on policies, they do have formalized ways to make their views known (in an advisory capacity) and their views are taken seriously by the rulers. As far as I can tell, local people seem to be content with their rulers and with their form of government. One person said that they were starting to toy with the idea of democracy, but were frightened away by the example of Iraq.
The United Arab Emirates is governed by, well, emirs. However, they are usually called sheikhs. Their powers are similar to those of kings. Despite the lack of democracy in the Western sense, the rulers are in generally extremely popular and well-respected. Each emirate has its own sheikh. The president of the country is chosen from the seven emirs. The presidents, have so far come from Abu Dhabi. This is not surprising, since Abu Dhabi is much larger and wealthier than the other emirates. Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan was the first president and ruled until his death until 2004. (The country was formed in 1971). He was extremely well-respected, both by his own people and across the Middle East.
Although he was personally enormously wealthy because of oil, he lived relatively modestly and used his wealth to develop his country and help his people. He built up institutions such as schools, universities, hospitals, and guided the country to rapid economic development. He was known for his tolerance to other religions and for his promotion of women’s participation in education and the workplace. He was pro-Western and generally considered a moderate and upright ruler.
The current president is Sheikh Zayed’s son, Sheihkh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, who has continued his father’s tradition of investing in education and modernization. He is generally pro-Western and moderate. Although the people do not vote on policies, they do have formalized ways to make their views known (in an advisory capacity) and their views are taken seriously by the rulers. As far as I can tell, local people seem to be content with their rulers and with their form of government. One person said that they were starting to toy with the idea of democracy, but were frightened away by the example of Iraq.
Majlis Time
Majlis Time
Sunday was the first time I experienced any real cultural befuddlement since I’ve been here. Most of our days have been spent visiting with local officials from various institutions: government, education, cultural institutions, and so forth. We usually sit around a conference table in a western-style office. They usually give short presentation and then we ask questions. (We are known for asking A LOT of questions.) It is all very culturally familiar.
So I was expecting a similar situation on Sunday when the schedule said we were to meet with Sheikh Mahyan Mubarak al Nahyan, the Minister of Higher Education and Scientific Research. A few minutes before we arrived at our destination, our local group leader (Lana) casually mentioned that this Sheikh is the cousin of the ruler of the country and that we would be meeting at his home, a palace. She also said it wouldn’t be appropriate to take pictures.
We arrived at a home which was indeed palatial. On the front steps were arrayed about a half dozen men in kandouras who neither smiled at us nor greeted us. (This is unusual). I have no idea who they were. Then we entered a huge, ornate hall which had no furniture in the middle, but which had seats lining both walls. At the end of the room were arrayed a few larger chairs. I assumed these were for the sheikh and his honored guests, but there was nobody there. Unsure of what to do, the ten of us sat down on the benches, farthest away from the sheikh’s chairs. Lana, our local guide, never explained what was to happen, so I remained quite confused. I had thought we would be alone with the sheikh, but apparently this was not the case. A delegation of white people in western business clothing (heretofore referred to as “the suits”) arrived, making a fair amount of commotion, and sat near the sheikh. We learned later that this delegation was accompanying the Australian Minister of Higher Education, a woman. They came with large cameras and video equipment and took pictures of us as well as of everyone else.
Then more and more men in the local white robed kandoura (heretofore referred to as “the robes”) entered and sat directly across from us Americans (heretofore referred to as “the frumps.” ) After the initial seating arrangements (which occurred in 5 or so minutes), whenever any new robes came in, all of us stood up and greeted him as a group in Arabic (asalamalaykim). Then the robes went through and shook the hands and greeted everybody in the hall. (There were maybe 60 or so people attending.) I had no idea who anybody was (still don’t.) We popped up and down over and over like jacks in the box. Eventually a Very Important Robe came in and greeted us. This was the sheikh. He, too, came around and shook all of our hands and then sat at the front of the room. I thought this would now be the beginning of the meeting, but I was wrong. Robes continued to enter, we continued to jump up and shake everyone’s hands. I still had no idea who anybody was. A servant came around and served us all coffee. Later, a servant came around and served us all coffee. Still later, a servant came around and served us all coffee.
The sheikh invited Mary, the head of Amideast (the local organization who arranged our visit) to sit at the front with him. He also invited the Australian Minister of Higher Education to sit with him. He then proceeded to chat with those two women while the rest of us remained in our seats and bobbed up and down whenever anyone entered.
Before we arrived here, we were given firm instruction in how to behave ourselves. We were told that women should never wear anything that exposes the legs above the knee. We were also told that it is considered extremely offensive to expose the sole of one’s shoes or feet to other people. So we all sat demurely in our long shirts and pants, being sure to keep our soles on the floor. We tried not to stare at the 20 or so robes sitting across the hall from us, but it was hard not to.
Imagine our surprise, then, when we observed the female Australian Minister for Higher Education (henceforth referred to as “ASH” for Australian Shameless Hussy) sitting at the front of a room with a short skirt on, and her legs crossed so that we could see her thighs. Not only that, but ASH was exposing the soles of her shoes for all the world to see. She also talked and laughed in a really loud voice, as if she were in a bar. We were all genuinely appalled and embarrassed for her, but ASH seemed totally oblivious to what she was doing. (It is fascinating how quickly we have internalized the local mores and have turned into the morality police.)
At one point, the Sheikh acknowledged our existence, by asking us as a group if it was the first time we had visited the UAE. We all responded in unison: “yes.” Then he asked if we were enjoying our stay. We responded “yes.” He welcomed us, and we responded. “Thank you.” That was the extent of our discussion with him.
We spent about an hour sitting against the wall, bobbing up and down as visitors came and went, keeping our soles firmly on the floor. We became rather bored and started whispering to each other. First we gossiped about ASH, then we started speculating in inappropriate ways who are these people were. We noticed that the robes across from us looked bored also. Some twiddled their thumbs, while others took out their cell phones and started texting. Our conversations and giggles devolved even further. (I will not divulge the nature of said inappropriate discussions.)
Finally, after about an hour, the sheikh decided to end the session and walked out. He offered to have his picture taken with us, so we did. He made some jovial comments and that was the end of our meeting with the Minister of Higher Education and Scientific Research.
Sunday was the first time I experienced any real cultural befuddlement since I’ve been here. Most of our days have been spent visiting with local officials from various institutions: government, education, cultural institutions, and so forth. We usually sit around a conference table in a western-style office. They usually give short presentation and then we ask questions. (We are known for asking A LOT of questions.) It is all very culturally familiar.
So I was expecting a similar situation on Sunday when the schedule said we were to meet with Sheikh Mahyan Mubarak al Nahyan, the Minister of Higher Education and Scientific Research. A few minutes before we arrived at our destination, our local group leader (Lana) casually mentioned that this Sheikh is the cousin of the ruler of the country and that we would be meeting at his home, a palace. She also said it wouldn’t be appropriate to take pictures.
We arrived at a home which was indeed palatial. On the front steps were arrayed about a half dozen men in kandouras who neither smiled at us nor greeted us. (This is unusual). I have no idea who they were. Then we entered a huge, ornate hall which had no furniture in the middle, but which had seats lining both walls. At the end of the room were arrayed a few larger chairs. I assumed these were for the sheikh and his honored guests, but there was nobody there. Unsure of what to do, the ten of us sat down on the benches, farthest away from the sheikh’s chairs. Lana, our local guide, never explained what was to happen, so I remained quite confused. I had thought we would be alone with the sheikh, but apparently this was not the case. A delegation of white people in western business clothing (heretofore referred to as “the suits”) arrived, making a fair amount of commotion, and sat near the sheikh. We learned later that this delegation was accompanying the Australian Minister of Higher Education, a woman. They came with large cameras and video equipment and took pictures of us as well as of everyone else.
Then more and more men in the local white robed kandoura (heretofore referred to as “the robes”) entered and sat directly across from us Americans (heretofore referred to as “the frumps.” ) After the initial seating arrangements (which occurred in 5 or so minutes), whenever any new robes came in, all of us stood up and greeted him as a group in Arabic (asalamalaykim). Then the robes went through and shook the hands and greeted everybody in the hall. (There were maybe 60 or so people attending.) I had no idea who anybody was (still don’t.) We popped up and down over and over like jacks in the box. Eventually a Very Important Robe came in and greeted us. This was the sheikh. He, too, came around and shook all of our hands and then sat at the front of the room. I thought this would now be the beginning of the meeting, but I was wrong. Robes continued to enter, we continued to jump up and shake everyone’s hands. I still had no idea who anybody was. A servant came around and served us all coffee. Later, a servant came around and served us all coffee. Still later, a servant came around and served us all coffee.
The sheikh invited Mary, the head of Amideast (the local organization who arranged our visit) to sit at the front with him. He also invited the Australian Minister of Higher Education to sit with him. He then proceeded to chat with those two women while the rest of us remained in our seats and bobbed up and down whenever anyone entered.
Before we arrived here, we were given firm instruction in how to behave ourselves. We were told that women should never wear anything that exposes the legs above the knee. We were also told that it is considered extremely offensive to expose the sole of one’s shoes or feet to other people. So we all sat demurely in our long shirts and pants, being sure to keep our soles on the floor. We tried not to stare at the 20 or so robes sitting across the hall from us, but it was hard not to.
Imagine our surprise, then, when we observed the female Australian Minister for Higher Education (henceforth referred to as “ASH” for Australian Shameless Hussy) sitting at the front of a room with a short skirt on, and her legs crossed so that we could see her thighs. Not only that, but ASH was exposing the soles of her shoes for all the world to see. She also talked and laughed in a really loud voice, as if she were in a bar. We were all genuinely appalled and embarrassed for her, but ASH seemed totally oblivious to what she was doing. (It is fascinating how quickly we have internalized the local mores and have turned into the morality police.)
At one point, the Sheikh acknowledged our existence, by asking us as a group if it was the first time we had visited the UAE. We all responded in unison: “yes.” Then he asked if we were enjoying our stay. We responded “yes.” He welcomed us, and we responded. “Thank you.” That was the extent of our discussion with him.
We spent about an hour sitting against the wall, bobbing up and down as visitors came and went, keeping our soles firmly on the floor. We became rather bored and started whispering to each other. First we gossiped about ASH, then we started speculating in inappropriate ways who are these people were. We noticed that the robes across from us looked bored also. Some twiddled their thumbs, while others took out their cell phones and started texting. Our conversations and giggles devolved even further. (I will not divulge the nature of said inappropriate discussions.)
Finally, after about an hour, the sheikh decided to end the session and walked out. He offered to have his picture taken with us, so we did. He made some jovial comments and that was the end of our meeting with the Minister of Higher Education and Scientific Research.
Crazy Fast Development
This country has grown and developed at an unprecedented, mind-boggling rate. I'm sure I can find some statistics with which to dazzle you, but I think the photos I posted below can give you an idea of what I mean. In 1960, there was very little here. Dubai was a small, dusty, trading village and Abu Dhabi was also very sparsely settled. Most of the people still lived a traditional Bedouin (nomadic) lifestyle or else worked as fishermen or traders. Oil changed all that and the country has transformed itself from a traditional society to a 21st century, ultra-sophisticated, ultra wealthy nation in about 40 years. The older generation must be thoroughly confused. I am a little confused myself.
Yesterday we visited the Oasis Hospital in El Ain. This was begun by Christian missionaries in 1960. This was the first modern medical facility in the country. Before it came, the rate of death for women in childbirth was 50% and about 30% of children died at birth. Now the rates are similar to those of any developed nation. This is just one example to give a sense of the astonishing changes that have taken place in one generation.
Life was very harsh a generation ago. Traditional Bedouins lived in scorching desert conditions and subsisted on dates, camel milk, a little rice and a little fish. Now the Emiratis live in air-conditioned splendour and have a high rate of obesity and diabetes. Many of the problems they face are similar to those of the United States, but they arrived at these problems in one generation rather than hundreds of years.
One problem they don't face is crime; the crime rates are very low. I speculate this may be because the Emiratis have most everything they want, and the guest workers would be deported if they were caught.
Yesterday we visited the Oasis Hospital in El Ain. This was begun by Christian missionaries in 1960. This was the first modern medical facility in the country. Before it came, the rate of death for women in childbirth was 50% and about 30% of children died at birth. Now the rates are similar to those of any developed nation. This is just one example to give a sense of the astonishing changes that have taken place in one generation.
Life was very harsh a generation ago. Traditional Bedouins lived in scorching desert conditions and subsisted on dates, camel milk, a little rice and a little fish. Now the Emiratis live in air-conditioned splendour and have a high rate of obesity and diabetes. Many of the problems they face are similar to those of the United States, but they arrived at these problems in one generation rather than hundreds of years.
One problem they don't face is crime; the crime rates are very low. I speculate this may be because the Emiratis have most everything they want, and the guest workers would be deported if they were caught.
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